Rubondo Island National Park

Rubondo Island National Park is one of only two island national parks in Tanzania, a green jewel set in the south-western corner of Lake Victoria, the largest lake in Africa. Covering 456.8 km² — about half dry land and half water — it protects the main island plus eleven smaller islets, all cloaked in some of the last untouched equatorial forest in East Africa.

Rubondo’s story is unusual. In the late 1960s it became a sanctuary for animals rescued from zoos and circuses, when the conservationist Bernhard Grzimek released chimpanzees, elephants, giraffes and African grey parrots onto the island. The experiment worked, and their descendants now range free through the forest — including a partially habituated chimpanzee population.

Because the island has no lions or leopards, Rubondo is a rare place where visitors can explore on foot. Guided forest walks reveal the swamp-loving sitatunga antelope, troops of monkeys and a wealth of orchids, butterflies and birds.

With the blue water of Lake Victoria all around, Rubondo combines game viewing, birding and world-class Nile perch fishing on Africa’s great inland sea. It is a distinctly different, deeply peaceful stop on the Western Circuit.

Rubondo rises from the south-western waters of Lake Victoria, about 150 km west of Mwanza in the Geita Region. The main island is roughly 237 km² and protects a further eleven islets, none much larger than 2 km². The highest ground is the Masa Hills in the far south, at 1,486 m.

Around 80% of the island is still forested, with a mosaic of habitats that includes dense equatorial rainforest, open woodland, grassland, papyrus swamp and long sandy beaches. That variety is the key to Rubondo’s biodiversity.

Its isolation in the middle of a vast lake has preserved the island remarkably well, protecting one of the last representatives of evergreen Congolese lowland forest and the unique community of life it holds.

Between 1966 and 1969, seventeen chimpanzees — many rescued from European zoos and circuses — were released onto Rubondo in the first serious attempt to return captive chimps to the wild. They survived, bred and established a self-sustaining population in the forest.

The community is only partially habituated, which makes finding them harder than at Gombe or Mahale, but that is part of the appeal: any encounter feels genuinely earned. Penguin, a well-known resident male, became something of a legend in the park.

Guided chimp walks set off into the forest early in the morning, when the trails are cool and the birds at their most active, and sightings, though not guaranteed, are increasingly rewarding as habituation continues.

Rubondo became a game reserve in 1965 and was gazetted as a national park in 1977. Before protection, the island was home to Zinza fishing families who grew bananas; they were resettled on the mainland and neighbouring islands in the late 1960s, and the island has since been uninhabited.

The reintroductions that followed were pioneering — and controversial. Alongside chimpanzees, Grzimek’s team brought elephant, giraffe, black-and-white colobus monkeys and African grey parrots confiscated from the illegal trade. Several of these species have flourished; a few did not survive.

The result is a park that today safeguards boisterous African grey parrots, forest elephant, giraffe and the distinctive island chimpanzees, and continues to serve as a haven for species in need.

Rubondo is a small, low-volume park, and visitor facilities are limited. Entrance conservation fees, activity fees and, where relevant, fishing and chimpanzee permits apply. Rates are set by the government and confirmed when you book.

A few practical points to keep in mind:

• Access is by boat from the mainland shore or by light aircraft to the island airstrip.
• Boat transfers can be affected by Lake Victoria’s weather, so build in flexibility.
• Forest walks require a guide or ranger; some activities are by prior arrangement.
• Facilities and supplies are minimal, so bring essentials with you.
• The dry season from June to October offers the best conditions.

Rubondo is a low-risk destination for most travellers, but the lakeside setting means malaria is a consideration. Speak to your travel doctor about antimalarials and pack repellent for the evenings and after rain.

On foot you are exposed to the elements and to insects, so wear covered shoes and long trousers for walks. On the water, always follow your guide’s instructions and wear the life jacket provided.

• Take antimalarials and carry personal medication and a first-aid kit.
• Wear long trousers and sturdy shoes for forest walks.
• Fish responsibly and respect catch restrictions where they apply.
• Never approach wildlife too closely, even on foot.
• Leave no litter — this island ecosystem is fragile and enclosed.